A chef’s guide to peppercorns.

Salt may be the kitchen’s most talked-about seasoning, but pepper is one of its most misunderstood. From everyday black pepper to fragrant pink, earthy white, citrusy Sichuan and the ancient long pepper, discover how each variety brings its own personality to the plate.

^{As a chef, I don’t simply ask,
‘Does this need pepper?’
I ask,
‘Which pepper is best suited to this dish?’}

Many home cooks have just one grinder filled with black pepper and use it for all their cooking. However, pepper comes in various forms, each with its own unique aroma, heat level, and culinary purpose. Selecting the right type of pepper can elevate a dish from ordinary to exceptional.

Black pepper – The everyday classic

Black pepper is harvested while the berries are still green and then dried in the sun. During this drying process, the skin wrinkles and darkens, resulting in the familiar black peppercorn. Its flavour is bold, woody, citrusy, and pleasantly spicy.

Use black pepper with: 

• Most savoury recipes
  

Freshly cracked black pepper contains volatile aromatic oils that dissipate quickly once ground, which is why pre-ground pepper often lacks the same complexity.

Fact or fiction? Black pepper helps you absorb turmeric

Black pepper contains a natural compound called piperine, while turmeric contains curcumin, its principal bioactive compound. Curcumin is absorbed rather poorly on its own, but piperine has been shown to significantly improve its absorption by slowing its breakdown in the gut and liver.

However, sprinkling a little black pepper on your curry isn’t a magic bullet. Curcumin is still difficult to absorb, and the greatest benefit comes when turmeric is eaten as part of a meal containing healthy fats, such as olive oil, coconut milk or avocado.

Chef’s tip: Enjoy turmeric and freshly ground black pepper together in soups, curries, roasted vegetables and golden milk—not because it’s a miracle cure, but because they complement each other beautifully in both flavour and function.

White pepper – Subtle but essential

White pepper starts as the same berry as black pepper. The ripe berries are soaked until the outer skin softens, then the skin is removed, leaving just the inner seed. Without the dark outer layer, white pepper develops a softer, earthy heat with a slightly fermented character. Many people believe they dislike white pepper because they have only tasted stale, pre-ground versions.

Use white pepper in: 

• Prosciutto di Carpegna wrapped whiting with peas
• Risotto with asparagus

White pepper provides warmth without black specks, making it an ideal choice where appearance matters.

Green peppercorns – Bright and fresh

Green peppercorns are picked when young and preserved by freeze-drying, brining, or drying before maturity. Their flavour is vibrant, herbaceous, and only mildly spicy.

Freeze-dried green peppercorns are unripe black peppercorns picked early and preserved using freeze-drying, which locks in their vibrant colour, fresh herbaceous flavour and delicate aroma. Unlike black pepper, they retain a bright, slightly citrusy character that makes them ideal for seafood, chicken, creamy sauces and pâté.

Perfect for: 

• Braised chicken in white wine with thyme and tarragon

Brined green peppercorns can create one of the world’s great pan sauces.

Pink peppercorns – Not actually pepper

Surprisingly, pink peppercorns aren’t true pepper at all. They come from the berries of the Peruvian or Brazilian pepper tree rather than the Piper nigrum vine. Their flavour is delicate, floral, slightly sweet, and resinous.

They pair beautifully with: 

• Pumpkin with smoky eggplant hummus and figs
• Parmesan and pink pepper popcorn
• Beet & rosewater salad

Pink peppercorns are more aromatic than spicy, adding colour as much as flavour. However, individuals with tree nut allergies should exercise caution, as pink peppercorns may trigger reactions in some people.

Sichuan pepper – The mouth-tingling imposter

Despite its name, Sichuan (Szechuan) pepper isn’t a true peppercorn and isn’t related to black pepper (Piper nigrum). It comes from the dried husk of the prickly ash tree and is prized for its distinctive citrus aroma and signature tingling, numbing sensation known as málà.

While the spice is synonymous with Sichuan cuisine, only a portion of the region’s dishes rely on intense heat. Many traditional recipes celebrate balance, combining fragrant spices, aromatics and subtle layers of flavour.

The Song Dynasty also saw the emergence of Sichuan cuisine as one of China’s most influential regional cooking styles. During this period, tea was not only enjoyed as a beverage but also used to smoke foods, particularly duck, creating elegant, aromatic dishes rather than fiery ones. This culinary tradition continues today, alongside the enduring culture of teahouses and dim sum.

For a deeper look at the history of Chinese tea culture and dim sum, read my article To Dot the Heart:  The importance of the Chinese teahouse and dim sum.

Rather than heat, it creates a fascinating citrus aroma followed by a gentle numbing sensation on the tongue.

Delightful in:

• Char Siew with necatrines and watercress
• Seafood dumplings
• Sichuan dumplings

Why does Sichuan pepper make your mouth tingle?

Unlike black or white pepper, Sichuan pepper isn’t actually hot. Its signature tingling sensation comes from a naturally occurring compound called hydroxy-alpha-sanshool, found in the outer husk. Rather than burning, it creates a gentle numbing, citrusy buzz that makes other flavours taste brighter and more vibrant.

In traditional Sichuan cuisine, it is paired with dried chillies to create málà—má (numbing) and là (hot)—the unmistakable flavour combination behind dishes such as Mapo Tofu, hot pot and dan dan noodles.

Lightly toast the husks before grinding to release their floral aroma, and discard the hard black seeds, which are bitter and contribute little flavour. Its unique tingling quality actually heightens other flavours.

Long pepper – The forgotten original

Before black pepper dominated world trade, long pepper was highly prized throughout Europe and Asia.

Rather than round berries, long pepper grows in elongated flower spikes resembling tiny pine cones.

Delicious in

• Slow-cooked beef rendang

Discovering long pepper in Bali

One of the highlights of my recent visit to the Ubud Food Festival was joining a local spice walk through the tropical forest. While most visitors recognised vanilla and cinnamon, it was the long pepper vine that stopped me in my tracks.

Hanging from the vine were slender spikes that looked almost like tiny catkins. It was difficult to imagine that these humble fruits were once more valuable than black pepper and traded across Europe and Asia centuries before the modern pepper grinder existed.

Fresh on the vine, long pepper has a delicate herbal aroma. Once dried, it develops an extraordinary complexity—warming notes of cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom wrapped around a gentle peppery heat. It’s one of those ingredients that reminds us how much flavour we’ve forgotten in our pursuit of convenience.

As chefs, we often talk about seasonality. I believe we should also talk about origin. Walking through a spice garden reconnects us with the plants behind the pantry and deepens our appreciation of every pinch we add to a dish.

If you’ve never tried long pepper, prepare to rethink everything you thought pepper could be.

A chef’s pepper rule

Think of pepper the way you think about wine. You wouldn’t serve every meal with the same bottle.

Likewise, every pepper tells a different story:

• Bold black pepper for roasting.
• Elegant white pepper for cream sauces.
• Fresh green peppercorns for pan sauces.
• Floral pink peppercorns for delicate dishes.
• Ancient long pepper when you want warmth and intrigue.
• Tingly Sichuan pepper for excitement.

The best kitchens don’t rely on one pepper grinder.
They understand that choosing the right pepper is one of the simplest ways to cook with greater intention.

Food as medicine: Why pepper belongs in every kitchen

Pepper has been valued for thousands of years, not only for flavour but for its medicinal properties.

Black pepper contains piperine, a natural compound shown to enhance the absorption of certain nutrients, including curcumin from turmeric. It may also support digestion by stimulating digestive enzymes and improving gastric function.

While pepper isn’t a miracle ingredient, using freshly ground, high-quality pepper is another reminder that small choices in the kitchen can make both meals and nutrition more effective.

Sometimes the smallest ingredient creates the biggest difference.

Which pepper deserves a permanent place in your pantry?

Perhaps the better question is: why stop at one?

Pepper comparison chart

Love cooking with a little heat?

Explore the history, health benefits and culinary magic of onions and chillies in my article, Lilies & Chillies. Read it here