Sake – drink of the Gods

Few beverages carry the cultural significance of sake. Revered as the “Drink of the Gods”, this traditional Japanese rice brew has been enjoyed for more than 2,000 years and remains deeply woven into Japanese cuisine, religion and celebration.

From sacred Shinto ceremonies to modern fine dining, sake tells the story of craftsmanship, fermentation and hospitality. As both a chef and clinical nutritionist, I’ve long admired sake not only for its delicate flavour but also for the remarkable science behind its production.

In this guide, you’ll discover where sake originated, how it is made, why it holds such spiritual importance, and how to enjoy it at its best.

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The Drink of the Gods

The mere mention of the word sake has the capacity to bring a shudder, a sigh and a desperate look of ‘never again’ to many foreign faces. However, to the Japanese, the tradition of fermenting rice into wine dates back to c. AD 300 and has evolved into a key component of Japanese culture and cuisine.

The popularity of Japanese culture is highlighted in the James Bond film, You Only Live Twice, made in 1967 at a time when breweries had to fortify their sake with distilled alcohol as a result of a shortage of wartime rice.

Tiger Tanaka: “Do you like Japanese sake, Mr. Bond? Or would you prefer a vodka martini?”

James Bond: “No, no. I like sake. Especially when it’s served at the correct temperature, 98.4 degrees Fahrenheit, like this is.”

Tiger Tanaka: “For a European, you are exceptionally cultivated.”[i]

What is Sake?

To understand sake in the West is considered something of a status symbol and in the modern era, it can provide an essential element to successful business dealings. At a traditional Shinto wedding in Japan once the groom has read the wedding oath, the bride and groom then exchange three cups of sake to signify their life ahead.

The original Japanese chronicle called the Kojiki states that Suzukori, a foreign brew master, was commissioned to brew fermented rice wine for the Emperor Ojin A.D. 270 -310. Kuchikami no sake – which translates as “chewing-in-the-mouth sake” – was the first reported sake that originated during the era when the city of Nara was the nation’s capital 710-794.

Sake ceremony

The ceremony of sake belongs to the rituals of the Shinto religion, and its consumption is celebrated throughout many festivals, including the practice of chewing the rice, then spitting it into a vessel to ferment. The amylase enzyme from the person’s saliva would in turn, contribute to the fermentation process.

In parts of the northern island of Hokkaido and in the rural areas of the southern province of Okinawa, ‘only virgins were allowed to chew the rice. These virgins were considered mediums of the gods, and the sake they produced was called hijinshu or ‘beautiful women sake’.[ii]

The origin of sake – like many great gastronomic discoveries – came about by accident. A cask of steamed rice was forgotten and left out for a few days, after which time a beneficial mould colonised the steamed rice.

Why sake isn’t actually rice wine

Although sake is often referred to as Japanese rice wine, it is technically a brewed alcoholic beverage rather than a true wine. Unlike grape wine, which ferments naturally occurring fruit sugars, sake begins with polished rice, whose starches must first be converted into fermentable sugars by koji (Aspergillus oryzae).

Yeast then transforms these sugars into alcohol through a remarkable process known as multiple parallel fermentation, where starch conversion and fermentation occur simultaneously. This unique brewing method is more closely related to beer production than winemaking, although sake possesses the elegance and complexity often associated with fine wines.

To create sake, the starch in polished rice must first be converted into fermentable sugars using koji (Aspergillus oryzae), a beneficial mould that has been used in Japanese brewing for centuries. Yeast then converts these sugars into alcohol through a unique process known as multiple parallel fermentation, where starch conversion and alcohol fermentation occur simultaneously in the same vessel.

This remarkable brewing method is more closely related to beer production than winemaking, yet the refined aromas, elegant flavours and food-friendly character of sake have earned it the nickname “rice wine” around the world.

How is sake made?

Rice polishing

As brewing techniques developed over time, a more complex production process rolled out, and the common sequence today includes rice milling, where the rice is polished and excess starch is removed.

Rice washing, soaking & steaming

Rice washing is a precise process that removes the flour that covers the rice, resulting in the introduction of moisture to the grain. Then the rice is soaked so as to enhance the moisture content and prepare it for the steaming process.  Steaming the rice for about one hour prepares it for the all-important step of adding the mould, a culture called koji. Koji is the Aspergillus oryzae fungus that generates the essential mould spores required for the fermentation process to propagate.

Master brewer cultivating koji on steamed rice for traditional Japanese sake production.

Koji cultivation

The addition of koji is the most important step and differentiates the drink from all other brewed beverages. In this process, each grain must be wet on the inside and dry on the outside so the koji room is usually made of wood or metal. From here, the koji powder is distributed evenly. Much like sourdough, biodynamic farming and other culture-dependent processes, a yeast starter is required, called moto or shubo, which is added to the koji-rice and water to inoculate the brew, kick-start the proliferation of yeast to manifest.

Yeast starter (Moto)

Yeast, water and koji levels may be adjusted over four days. From here, the mashing begins – moromi – and then the entire brew is left to ferment for thirty days. The wine is then pressed through a pressurised machine to extract the rice solids, followed by the pasteurising process, which occurs so as to preserve the sake and kill off any residual bacteria and enzymes that could impair the quality.

Main fermentation

To ensure a clear product, the sake is then charcoal-filtered to remove any cloud or enzymes that may discolour the brew. From here, the sake is stored for three to six months in the traditional casks that often feature in the temple gardens of the Shinto shrines around Japan. The product is then bottled and undergoes a final pasteurisation process before being shipped.

Traditionally, sake is served warm because the warming process enhances the delicate flavour, character and subtle nuances of the wine. In the summer months, cold sake is enjoyed throughout Japan. Warm sake is always served in a ceramic flask with petite cups, while cold sake is served in square timber boxes. It is customary to hold your cup up to receive the sake from the pourer, and it is believed to be bad manners to pour your own sake. 

Is sake good for you?

Sake contains small amounts of amino acids, organic acids and naturally occurring fermentation compounds created during brewing. Like all alcoholic beverages, however, it should be enjoyed in moderation. While sake may accompany a healthy Japanese-style meal, excessive alcohol intake is associated with significant health risks and outweighs any potential benefits.

How to serve sake

One of the great pleasures of sake is its versatility. It can be enjoyed chilled, at room temperature or gently warmed, depending on the style, season and occasion. Premium Ginjo and Daiginjo sakes are typically served chilled to showcase their delicate floral aromas and refined fruit flavours. More robust styles, including Junmai and Honjozo, may be served at room temperature or gently warmed, allowing their rich umami character and fuller body to shine.

Traditionally, warmed sake is served in a ceramic flask (tokkuri) with small ceramic cups (ochoko), while chilled sake may be presented in glassware or wooden masu cups, particularly during celebrations and festivals. Across Japan, serving temperature often reflects both the style of sake and the season.

Sake etiquette is as important as the drink itself. It is customary to hold your cup while another person pours for you, and good manners dictate that you return the favour rather than pouring your own. This simple ritual reflects the Japanese values of hospitality, respect and shared enjoyment.

What food goes well with sake?

Sake’s balanced acidity, gentle sweetness and natural umami make it one of the world’s most food-friendly beverages. While it’s famously paired with sushi, sake also complements a wide variety of dishes.

Chef’s Tip: Match delicate, fragrant sakes with lighter dishes, while richer Junmai styles pair beautifully with grilled meats, hearty mushrooms and savoury umami-rich foods.

How to make teriyaki salmon
How to make Teriyaki salmon – Recipe here

FAQs

Is sake stronger than wine?

Most sake contains around 15–16% alcohol, making it similar to many wines but stronger than beer.

Is sake gluten-free?

Traditional sake is made from rice and is generally considered gluten-free, although people with coeliac disease should always check individual brands for manufacturing practices.

Is sake served hot?

It can be served chilled, at room temperature or gently warmed depending on the style and season.

Does sake improve with age?

Unlike many wines, most sake is intended to be enjoyed relatively young, although some specialty aged styles are produced.

Why is koji so important?

Koji mould converts rice starch into sugars that yeast can ferment, making it the defining ingredient in traditional sake brewing.


You might also like:

Ume-sho-kuzu is a traditional Japanese restorative drink made from just a few simple ingredients. It has long been used in Japanese home cooking and the macrobiotic tradition as a warming tonic, particularly during cold weather or when someone feels run down or has digestive discomfort.

Cup of traditional Japanese umeboshi tea served with pickled plum in a ceramic bowl.

References

Print
Kondo, Hiroshi, 1984. Sake – A Drinker’s Guide. 1st ed. New York, New York: Kondansha International Ltd.

Shizuo Tsuji, 1986. Practical Japanese Cooking: Easy and elegant. 1st ed. Kodansha International.

Donald Richie, 1985. Taste of Japan – Customs and Etiquette. First Edition. Kodansha International Ltd.

Downer, Lesley Downer, 1985. Step-by-Step Japanese Cooking. 1st ed. Lane Cove, NSW: Doubleday Australia Pty. Ltd.

Schott, B, 2003. Scott’s Food & Drink Miscellany. 1st ed. london: bloomsbury.

Electronic
Sake Production Process
| UrbanSake.com. 2013. Sake Production Process | UrbanSake.com. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.urbansake.com/sake-101/sake-production-process. [Accessed 08 March 2013].

2013. . [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.www.sake-world.com/html/koji.html. [Accessed 08 March 2013].

Endnotes


[i] Schott, B, 2003. Scott’s Food & Drink Miscellany. Pg. 81

You Only Live Twice 1967, motion picture, Danjaq Eon Productions, distributed by United Artists, USA

[ii] Kondo, Hiroshi, 1984. Sake – A Drinker’s Guide. Pg 13

[iii] Donald Richie, 1985. Taste of Japan – Customs and Etiquette. Pg 98

http://chefsamgowing.com /eastern-grill-meets-western-girl/

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