Lilies & chillies: Beauty, spice and a little bit of heat

Few plants capture our attention quite like lilies and chillies. One offers spectacular blooms and intoxicating fragrance, while the other delivers colour, flavour and varying degrees of heat. Although they couldn’t be more different in the kitchen, both are cherished by gardeners for their beauty, resilience and ability to transform a space.

For me, chillies are far more than a fiery ingredient. They represent culture, preservation and creativity—from homemade chilli jam and fragrant curries to vibrant salsas and infused oils. Growing your own means you’ll always have fresh flavour at your fingertips, whether you prefer the gentle warmth of a jalapeño or the intense heat of a habanero.

“If you have two loaves of bread, sell one and buy a lily”
Chinese Proverb

The healing heritage of the allium family

For centuries, cultures across both the East and the West have celebrated the culinary and traditional medicinal value of the allium family. Garlic, onions, leeks, shallots and chives have been prized not only for the depth of flavour they bring to food, but also for their long history of use in supporting health and wellbeing.

In many traditional healing systems, garlic has been used during the cold and flu season. Combined with warming spices such as cayenne chilli, it has traditionally been enjoyed at the onset of illness to encourage perspiration and promote a comforting feeling of warmth throughout the body. While modern research continues to explore garlic’s health benefits, its naturally occurring sulphur compounds—including allicin—have been studied for their antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

It is little wonder that the members of the lily family (Allium)—garlic, onions, leeks, shallots and chives—work so harmoniously together in the kitchen. Individually, they each contribute their own unique character, but when combined with fresh chilli, ginger and aromatic spices, they form the flavour foundation of many of Asia’s most celebrated dishes, from fragrant curry pastes and sambals to stir-fries, soups and slow-cooked curries.

Nutritionally, allium vegetables are rich in organosulphur compounds, flavonoids and prebiotic fibres that help nourish a healthy gut microbiome. These naturally occurring compounds support the body’s normal detoxification pathways, assist in the metabolism of proteins and amino acids, and contribute to the body’s antioxidant defences.¹

Traditional remedies featuring spring onions and garlic have also been passed down through generations. Spring onion tea has long been used in some cultures as a warming home remedy during winter, while garlic poultices have historically been applied externally for minor ailments. Although these practices remain part of many traditional healing systems, scientific evidence supporting their effectiveness is limited, and fresh garlic should never be applied directly to the skin without appropriate guidance, as it may irritate.

“From garlic and onions to fiery bird’s eye chillies, these humble ingredients have shaped the flavours of Southeast Asia for centuries.”

Whether valued for their remarkable flavour or their rich nutritional profile, the allium family continues to earn its place as one of the most important groups of ingredients in kitchens around the world.

“The five pungent plants (onions, garlic, scallions, leeks, chives) have remarkable healing powers due to their ability to dissolve the deposits in the body from meat eating. Although celebrated for their healing effects, it is wise to note that they are also powerful herbs, are medicinal, and need to be used cautiously in the daily diet.”
– Paul Pitchford, Healing with Whole Foods

A guide to the onion family

Dry onions

Dry onions store well for several weeks when kept in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place. Choose bulbs with intact papery skins that feel firm and are free from bruising, soft spots or signs of sprouting.

Shallots (eschallots)

True eschallots are small, elongated bulbs with a delicate, sweet flavour and are widely used in French and Asian cuisine. They form the aromatic base of many curry pastes, dressings and sauces.

Red onions

Also known as Spanish onions, red onions range from round to oval in shape and have a naturally sweet, mild flavour. Their vibrant colour and crisp texture make them ideal for salads, pickles, relishes and fresh salsas.

Brown onions

The workhorse of the kitchen, brown onions develop a rich sweetness when slowly cooked and provide the flavour foundation for soups, stews, casseroles and sauces.

White onions

White onions have a sharper, more pungent flavour than brown onions and are commonly used in Mexican cuisine, fresh salsas and quick-cooking dishes.

Spring onions (scallions)

Known in Australia as spring onions and in many other countries as scallions, these slender green shoots add a fresh, mild onion flavour to salads, stir-fries, soups and garnishes.

Salad onions

Salad onions resemble larger spring onions, with small rounded bulbs and crisp green tops. Their delicate flavour makes them perfect for eating raw.

Leeks

Leeks are the sweetest member of the onion family, offering a delicate, subtle flavour that shines in soups, tarts, risottos and classic French cuisine. They pair beautifully with potatoes, mushrooms and creamy sauces.

Chives

The smallest member of the Allium family, chives produce fine hollow leaves with a delicate onion flavour. They are best added at the end of cooking or used fresh to garnish eggs, seafood, salads and creamy dishes.
Chillies: A journey through Southeast Asia

The markets of Southeast Asia

My fascination with chillies began long before they found their way into my kitchen. It started in the bustling markets of Southeast Asia, where every visit awakened my senses and deepened my appreciation for the remarkable role these fiery fruits play in regional cuisine.

From the vibrant markets of Mataram in Lombok and the bustling Batak markets of Medan in Sumatra, to the devout city of Kota Bharu on Malaysia’s northeast coast, the colourful streets of Phuket and Krabi in Thailand, and the lively food markets of Cebu in the Philippines, each destination tells its own culinary story.

The intoxicating aromas of freshly ground spices, fragrant herbs and roasting chillies are as distinctive as the local dialects themselves. Across this diverse region, no two curry pastes—or rempah—are exactly alike. Every family, village and culture has its own treasured recipe, passed lovingly from one generation to the next.

One of the greatest gifts of travel has been the friendships forged through food. In 2005, I met my dear friend Janet DeNeefe at her home in Ubud, Bali. Janet had invited me to present at her inaugural yoga festival, and within twenty-four hours, we had become lifelong friends.

People often remark on our uncanny similarities in both personality and mannerisms, earning her the affectionate title of my “Bali Janet”. Together we’ve shared countless culinary adventures, explored bustling markets and village kitchens, and celebrated the rich traditions of Balinese cooking. Through Janet, I gained a deeper understanding of Indonesia’s extraordinary food culture and the central role chillies play in balancing flavour, aroma and texture.

One of my earliest and most memorable encounters with authentic beef rendang came in the tiny village of Salang on Pulau Tioman, off Malaysia’s east coast. At the time, the island was wonderfully untouched. Electricity was limited, hot water was a luxury, and the only regular visitors were adventurous backpackers and scuba divers drawn to the crystal-clear waters and resident green turtles of the South China Sea.

I stayed with a local family who operated a small beachfront restaurant and a handful of simple bungalows. One evening, after the restaurant had closed, I was invited into the family kitchen to share a late supper prepared for a Muslim celebration earlier that day. At the heart of the feast was nasi kuning—golden turmeric rice served with quail eggs, crispy ikan bilis (dried anchovies), pickles, acar, sambal greens and an unforgettable beef rendang.

Slowly simmered in coconut milk with an aromatic blend of chillies, spices and herbs, the beef was cooked until the liquid had almost completely evaporated, leaving behind a rich, intensely flavoured coating that clung to every piece. It was my introduction to one of Southeast Asia’s great culinary treasures and a reminder that the best meals are often shared around a family table, where recipes are handed down through generations rather than written in cookbooks.

Those experiences forever changed the way I cook with chillies. To me, they are far more than a source of heat. They bring colour, complexity and character to a dish, balancing sweetness, acidity and richness while telling the story of the people and places from which they came.

Five things you didn’t know about chillies

🌶 Birds cannot taste chilli.

🌶 Chillies are technically berries.

🌶 Capsaicin is concentrated around the white membrane—not just the seeds.

🌶 Green and red chillies are often the same fruit at different stages of ripeness.

🌶 Chocolate once contained chilli before sugar became widespread.

Growing chillies successfully

• Feed with a potassium-rich fertiliser during flowering.
• Choose a sunny position.
• Water consistently, but avoid waterlogging.
• Harvest regularly to encourage more fruit.

At a glance: Lilies & Chillies

“A garden without chillies is like a kitchen without garlic.”

The Lily Family (Allium)	The Chilli Family (Capsicum)
🧄 Builds the flavour foundation of a dish	🌶️ Adds heat, colour and complexity
🧅 Aromatic and savoury	🔥 Rich in capsaicin, the compound responsible for heat
🍲 Develops natural sweetness when cooked	🍅 Excellent source of vitamin C and antioxidants
🌿 Rich in sulphur compounds and prebiotic fibre	❤️ Stimulates the palate and adds vibrant flavour
🥘 Essential in soups, stocks, curries and sauces	🌏 Central to cuisines throughout Asia, Latin America and beyond

Conclusion

Whether it’s the sweetness of a slowly caramelised onion, the perfume of fresh garlic or the fiery kick of a bird’s eye chilli, these remarkable plants remind us that great cooking begins with simple ingredients. My travels across Southeast Asia taught me that the most memorable dishes aren’t defined by complexity—they’re defined by balance, generosity and respect for tradition.

I hope this article inspires you to grow them, cook with them and discover their extraordinary contribution to kitchens around the world.

Originally published in April 2003 • Completely revised and expanded in July 2026