The aroma of a chook roasting in the oven and wafting through the house is, to me, one of those quintessential Australian food memories. It takes me straight to Sunday lunch, family, good conversation and that irresistible moment when someone finally says, “Is it ready yet?”

This is also what I cook when I’m feeling a little flat and craving something truly comforting. There is something wonderfully restorative about preparing a roast chicken, filling the kitchen with its earthy, savoury aromas and then sitting down to a generous plate of food that feels like a warm hug.

This recipe takes that much-loved roast chook and gives it an Italian-inspired twist, with a deeply savoury mushroom, walnut and Parmesan farce tucked beneath the skin, where it melts into the meat as the skin becomes beautifully crisp and golden.

A recipe from a memory

This roast chicken was inspired by a recipe my dear friend Michael used to make when I lived in Melbourne — one I remember from the pages of Gourmet Traveller. There are many versions of this style of roast chicken, and the technique of working a flavoured butter or herb mixture beneath the skin has a long European culinary tradition, particularly in French and Italian-influenced cooking.

My version has evolved from that memory, bringing together earthy mushrooms, toasted walnuts, Parmesan, lemon and the fresh herbs growing in my own garden. It is less about faithfully recreating the original and more about capturing the spirit of a dish I remember with great affection.

Mushroom, walnut and Parmesan farce

The mushroom, walnut and Parmesan farce is cooked down to a rich duxelles before being combined with walnuts, Parmesan, herbs and lemon, then spread beneath the chicken skin.

The mushrooms are cooked down into a rich duxelles with shallot and garlic, then combined with toasted walnuts, Parmesan, lemon and freshly picked marjoram, thyme, oregano and parsley. The mixture is spread generously beneath the chicken skin, where the Parmesan melts slowly into the meat as it roasts, creating wonderfully juicy flesh and deeply golden, crisp skin.

A few simple ingredients in the cavity — day-old bread, lemon and bacon — capture all those wonderful roasting juices, while carrot and celery create a rustic base for the chicken to roast over.

It is earthy, aromatic and beautifully juicy — the kind of food that fills the kitchen with good smells, brings people to the table and, on a flat day, makes everything feel just a little bit better.

Therapeutic notes

• Mushrooms provide B vitamins and antioxidant compounds, while walnuts contribute plant-based omega-3 fats and vitamin E.
• Fresh herbs and lemon add aromatic polyphenols and vitamin C, bringing brightness to an otherwise rich roast.
• Garlic and onion provide sulphur-containing compounds and prebiotic fibres.
• Parmesan and chicken provide protein, with Parmesan also contributing calcium.

This is a nutrient-dense, protein-rich roast with plenty of herbs and vegetables, although the butter, Parmesan and bacon make it a richer dish best enjoyed as part of a balanced meal.

FAQs

Can I use Swiss brown mushrooms instead of field mushrooms?

Absolutely. Swiss brown mushrooms work beautifully and have a lovely earthy flavour. Button mushrooms can also be used, although they tend to have a milder flavour.

Can I make the mushroom butter ahead of time?

Yes. The mushroom mixture can be prepared up to a day in advance and stored, covered, in the refrigerator. Bring it back towards room temperature before spreading it beneath the chicken skin so it is soft enough to work with.

Why do I need to cook the mushrooms before using them?

Cooking the mushrooms as a duxelles removes their excess moisture and concentrates their flavour. It also prevents the mixture beneath the skin from becoming watery during roasting.

Can I leave out the walnuts?

Yes. The walnuts add texture and a lovely earthy nuttiness, but the recipe will still work without them. Toasted hazelnuts would also be delicious.

Can I use dried herbs?

Fresh herbs are preferable here because their flavour is much brighter and more aromatic. If necessary, use dried herbs sparingly as they are considerably more concentrated.

What temperature should the chicken reach?

For food safety, cook the chicken to at least 75°C in the centre. Insert a clean thermometer probe into the thickest part of the thigh, avoiding the bone.

How long should the chicken rest?

Allow 15–20 minutes before carving. Resting gives the juices time to redistribute and makes the chicken easier to carve without losing moisture.

Can I make gravy from the roasting tray?

Absolutely. The carrot, celery, chicken juices and caramelised mushroom butter will create a beautiful base. Pour off excess fat if necessary, then deglaze the roasting tray with a little white wine or chicken stock and scrape up all the caramelised goodness from the base.

What should I serve with it?

I love this with steamed greens, roasted potatoes, green beans or a bitter leafy salad dressed with lemon and extra virgin olive oil. The chicken is rich, so something fresh and slightly bitter works particularly well.

Can I use the leftovers?

Yes. Remove the meat from the bones once cool and refrigerate promptly. Leftover chicken is wonderful in salads, sandwiches, soups, pasta or grain bowls. Keep cooked chicken refrigerated and use within a few days, following safe food-storage practices.

Italian-style roast chicken with mushroom, walnut and Parmesan farce

Recipe by Chef Sam Gowing

• Total Time0 hours
• YieldServes: 8

This recipe takes that much-loved roast chook and gives it an Italian-inspired twist, with a deeply savoury mushroom, walnut and Parmesan farce tucked beneath the skin, where it melts into the meat as the skin becomes beautifully crisp and golden.

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Print Recipe

Ingredients

Scale 1/2x1x2x3x

2 tsp unsalted butter

1 tbsp olive oil

1 large shallot, finely diced

3–4 garlic cloves, finely grated

2 large field mushrooms, very finely chopped to a duxelles

1/2 cup walnuts, lightly toasted and roughly chopped

1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan

1/2 lemon, finely grated zest and juice

1 tsp fresh marjoram leaves, finely chopped

1 tsp thyme leaves, finely chopped

1 tsp oregano leaves, finely chopped

2 tbsp parsley, finely chopped

1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs

Freshly ground black pepper

For the chicken

1 x 2 kg free-range chicken

1 lemon, halved

2 slices day-old bread, roughly torn

1 carrot, diced

2 celery stalks, diced

1 orange, halved

1 rasher bacon, rind removed

Olive oil

Salt

Cracked black pepper

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Instructions

Make the mushroom farce

1. Heat a large, heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add butter and half of the olive oil.
2. Add the shallot and cook gently for 5–7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent.
3. Add the scraped garlic and the remaining olive oil, and cook for another minute until fragrant.
4. Add the mushroom duxelles and cook until the mushrooms have released their moisture and the mixture has reduced considerably. Continue cooking until the mushrooms are concentrated, deeply savoury and almost dry.
5. Remove from the heat and stir through the toasted walnuts, Parmesan, lemon zest and juice, marjoram, thyme, oregano and parsley.
6. Fold through the panko breadcrumbs and season generously with freshly ground black pepper and salt.
7. Allow the mushroom mixture to cool completely. Once cool, beat in the remaining softened butter to create a rich, spreadable mushroom butter.

Prepare the chicken

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C fan-forced.
2. Remove the chicken from its packaging and pat the skin and cavity thoroughly dry with paper towel. Allow the chicken to come to room temperature before roasting rather than placing it in the oven straight from the refrigerator.
3. Carefully loosen the skin over the breasts using your fingers, working gently to create a pocket between the skin and flesh. If the skin begins to tear, don’t force it. Where possible, gently loosen the skin over the legs as well.
4. Using your fingers, spread the cooled mushroom butter generously beneath the skin, massaging it gently over the breast and into the available spaces.
5. Season the outside of the chicken with salt and freshly ground black pepper and rub lightly with olive oil.
6. Place the torn day-old bread and lemon halves into the chicken cavity, along with a few fresh bay leaves and thyme sprigs.
7. Secure the cavity with the rasher of bacon; as it cooks, the fat will render and seal the cavity.
8. Scatter the diced carrot and celery over the base of a large roasting tray and add orange halves.
9. Place the chicken on top of the vegetables.

Roast

1. Roast at 180°C fan-forced for approximately 1¼ –1¾ hours, depending on your oven, the shape and exact weight of the chicken.
2. Begin checking the temperature from around 1 hour 20 minutes. The chicken is ready when the thickest part of the thigh reaches at least 75°C on a clean food thermometer. (As this chicken contains bread in the cavity, make sure the centre of the chicken and the stuffing are thoroughly hot before serving. FSANZ recommends cooking poultry to at least 75°C in the centre.)
3. If the skin is becoming too dark before the chicken is cooked through, loosely cover the breast with foil and continue roasting.
4. Remove from the oven, cover loosely with foil (not too tight or you will make the crispy skin soft) and rest for 10-15 minutes before carving.
5. Serve with the roasted carrots, celery and pan juices, allowing plenty of that crisp, mushroom-buttered skin to make its way onto every plate.

Notes

Cook the mushrooms until properly dry. This is the secret to a beautiful mushroom farce. If the duxelles retains too much moisture, the mixture will become loose beneath the chicken skin rather than rich and concentrated.

Cool the mushroom mixture before adding it beneath the skin. Never place a hot mixture against raw chicken, as this can raise the temperature of the meat and create an unsafe environment for bacterial growth.

Don’t force the skin. The breast is the most important area for the mushroom farce. If the skin tears elsewhere, simply leave it alone.

Use a thermometer. Cooking time will vary between chickens and ovens. For a whole chicken, FSANZ recommends a minimum internal temperature of 75°C.

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• Prep Time: 40 minutes including resting for 10 minutes
• Cook Time: 1 hour 30 minutes
• Category: Chicken
• Method: Baking
• Cuisine: Modern Australian