With an abundance of curry leaves waving at us from the garden, a pair of matching head colds and a desire for warming, restorative home cooking, Normie and I decided it was time to whip up a remedial curry.

Two trips to India this year have well and truly ignited my inquisitive mind. I find myself thinking more deeply about the extraordinary regional diversity of Indian cooking — the spices, the souring agents, the layering of flavour and, most of all, the way seemingly simple ingredients can create such complexity.

Vindaloo felt like just the ticket.

Where does vindaloo come from?

A Portuguese beginning

Vindaloo has a fascinating history that reflects the meeting of Portuguese and Goan culinary traditions. Its name is generally traced to the Portuguese vinha d’alhos, meaning “wine and garlic”, a preparation of meat marinated with wine, vinegar and garlic. The technique travelled to Goa with the Portuguese in the early 16th century, where Goan cooks adapted it to local ingredients and cooking traditions.

Portuguese cooks used wine and garlic in meat preparations, including as a means of preserving and flavouring meat. In Goa, this evolved into vindalho, traditionally made with pork, vinegar, garlic and spices.

From Portugal to Goa

Once in Goa, the Portuguese preparation encountered an entirely different pantry. Local cooks incorporated Indian spices and local souring ingredients, including palm or toddy vinegar made from coconut palm sap. Garlic remained central, while the spice profile became distinctly Goan.

Pork became central to the Goan Catholic tradition of vindaloo, which developed under Portuguese influence. This is important because Hindu dietary traditions generally prohibit pork, so pork vindaloo is associated with Goa’s Catholic communities rather than being representative of Hindu Goan cuisine.

The original Portuguese vinha d’alhos preparation was made with meat, particularly pork, and Goan Catholic cooks adapted it using local vinegar, chillies, garlic and spices. Chicken vindaloo is therefore a later adaptation — one that has become enormously popular beyond Goa.

Why the sourness?

Sourness is central to vindaloo’s Portuguese origins. Vinegar was traditionally used with wine and garlic to preserve and flavour meat in carne de vinha d’alhos. When the dish travelled to Goa, local cooks adapted the recipe using palm or coconut vinegar, retaining that distinctive sour character.

It is this acidity that gives vindaloo its signature balance — sour, spicy, aromatic and subtly sweet, rather than simply hot.

Where did the chilli come from?

Interestingly, chilli was not native to India.

Chillies originated in the Americas and were introduced to India through Portuguese trade. They quickly became established in Indian cooking, including in Goa, where they became an important part of vindaloo’s characteristic heat and colour.

So that fiery red chilli character we now associate so strongly with vindaloo is itself part of the dish’s fascinating story of global culinary exchange.

Vinegar is the key

Acidity is fundamental to vindaloo. The Portuguese preparation centred on wine, vinegar and garlic, while the Goan version developed around local palm or toddy vinegar, traditionally made by fermenting sap from the coconut palm. This gives vindaloo its distinctive sharpness and is one of its defining characteristics.

Tamarind is also found in Goan preparations and brings a deeper, fruitier sourness. I particularly love the combination of coconut vinegar and tamarind in this version.

A curry shaped by cultural exchange

Vindaloo is therefore much more than simply a very hot curry. It is a wonderful example of migration, preservation, adaptation and culinary exchange — a Portuguese technique transformed by Goan cooks using the ingredients, spices and culinary traditions of their own region.

A very different vindaloo

If your experience of vindaloo has mostly been through takeaway restaurants, this version may come as a surprise.

Many modern curry-house versions have evolved into rich, oily and intensely hot curries, where chilli can become the dominant flavour. The Goan tradition is rather different, with vinegar, garlic, chilli and aromatic spices working together to create a distinctive balance of heat, acidity and depth.

That balance is what I’m chasing here — a vindaloo that is vibrant and aromatic rather than heavy, with acidity and spice doing the talking rather than a slick of oil or an overload of chilli.

My version

Two trips to India this year have well and truly ignited my inquisitive mind, and I’ve been thinking more deeply about the incredible regional diversity of Indian cooking.

For this version, I’ve used coconut vinegar and tamarind, roasted whole spices, fresh curry leaves, ripe tomatoes and red bird’s-eye chillies to create layers of warmth, fragrance, acidity and heat.

And because there is nothing quite like cooking with what is growing outside the kitchen door, those abundant curry leaves from our garden had to make an appearance.

The result is tangy, aromatic, warming and deeply satisfying — exactly what the doctor ordered for two slightly under-the-weather cooks.

Ayurvedic notes

This curry brings together many ingredients traditionally valued in Ayurvedic food traditions. Ginger, garlic, cumin, coriander, turmeric and fenugreek are warming, aromatic spices commonly used to support digestion and agni (digestive fire).

Ginger and black pepper bring warmth, while coriander and coconut vinegar provide a balancing freshness. Tamarind adds its characteristic sour quality, and the spice blend makes this a particularly warming dish.

From an Ayurvedic perspective, this is a warming, stimulating curry, best enjoyed mindfully and in moderation, particularly if you are sensitive to chilli or strongly heating foods.

A selection of accompaniments you might like

• Mango chutney – a good-quality store-bought mango chutney brings sweetness to balance the chilli and acidity.
• Banana, lime & coconut – this is particularly lovely with the hot, tangy vindaloo.
• Indian pickle – mango, lime or mixed vegetable pickle adds another layer of sour, salty heat.
• Plain yoghurt or raita – cooling and creamy alongside the chilli. A simple cucumber, mint and coriander raita would be beautiful.
• Fresh coriander – generously scattered over the curry just before serving.
• Fresh lime wedges – optional, for anyone wanting an extra hit of acidity.
• Crispy papadums – excellent for scooping up curry and chutney.

Chicken Vindaloo | Goan-Inspired Curry

Recipe by Chef Sam Gowing

• Total Time3 hours 20 minutes
• YieldServes 4-6 1x
• DietDairy-Free, Gluten-Free

A rich and aromatic chicken vindaloo served with basmati rice, fresh curry leaves and traditional Indian accompaniments.

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Print Recipe

Ingredients

Scale 1/2x1x2x3x

800 g boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into large pieces

For the Vindaloo paste

10 dried Kashmiri chillies, stems and seeds removed

2–4 red bird’s-eye chillies, according to taste

2 tablespoons coriander seeds

1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

5 cloves

1 small cinnamon quill, broken

3 green cardamom pods

1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

10 garlic cloves

2 1/2 tablespoons fresh ginger, roughly chopped

1/4 cup coconut vinegar *see note, or apple cider vinegar

1/3 cup tamarind puree *see note

1 teaspoon jaggery *see note or soft brown sugar

For the curry

2 teaspoons black mustard seeds

2 tablespoons coconut oil

1 large onion, finely sliced

10 fresh curry leaves, plus 1 extra frond for garnish

2 large ripe tomatoes, chopped

150–200 ml chicken stock as required

 To serve

Basmati rice, steamed

Fried curry leaves

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Instructions

For the vindaloo paste

1. Place the dried Kashmiri chillies, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, black peppercorns, cloves, cinnamon quill pieces, cardamom pods and fenugreek seeds in a dry frying pan.
2. Toast gently over medium-low heat for 2–3 minutes, shaking the pan frequently, until highly fragrant. Take care not to burn the spices. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.
3. Transfer the cooled, roasted spices to a spice grinder, small food processor or, preferably, a high-speed blender. Grind to a fine powder. Ensure the lid is firmly secured before blending!
4. Transfer to a large mixing bowl, add the garlic, ginger, bird’s-eye chillies, turmeric, coconut vinegar, tamarind liquid and jaggery. Blend until you have a thick, smooth paste.

For the marinade

1. Add the chicken to the bowl with the Vindaloo paste, mix thoroughly, ensuring every piece is well coated.
2. Cover and marinate for at least 2 hours, or refrigerate overnight if preferred.

For the curry

1. Heat a heavy-based casserole (see note) over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds and dry-fry until they begin to pop. Add the coconut oil and curry leaves, including one extra frond reserved for garnish, and allow them to sizzle briefly. Remove the extra frond and set aside.
2. Add the onion, ginger and garlic and cook slowly for 8–10 minutes, stirring regularly, until softened and lightly golden.
3. Add the chopped tomatoes and cook for approximately 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to break down into the spice base.
4. Add the marinated chicken and all of the marinade. Stir thoroughly to coat the chicken in the aromatic tomato and spice mixture.
5. Add 150 ml chicken stock, bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce the heat. Cover partially and cook for 25–30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is tender and cooked through.
6. Remove the lid and continue cooking for 5–10 minutes, allowing the sauce to reduce and cling to the chicken.
7. Taste and adjust the balance. The finished vindaloo should be sour, spicy, aromatic and subtly sweet, rather than simply hot.
8. Add a little more coconut vinegar for brightness, tamarind for deeper acidity, jaggery for sweetness, or water if the sauce is too intense.
9. Serve with steamed basmati rice and fresh coriander.

Notes

Equipment note: I used our marvellous Breville Country Kitchen electric frypan for this curry. Sadly, this wonderful old workhorse is no longer manufactured, but any good-quality electric frypan or heavy-based casserole will work beautifully.

Fresh curry leaves: An essential aromatic in many Indian curries, with a distinctive citrusy, earthy fragrance. Fresh is best; freezing can significantly diminish their delicate aroma and flavour. Look for fresh curry leaves at Indian grocers and selected greengrocers. Use them generously while they are fresh.

Coconut vinegar: A naturally fermented vinegar traditionally used in Filipino and South Indian cooking, with a mellow acidity and subtle sweetness. It is particularly lovely in vindaloo, adding the characteristic sharpness without being overly harsh. Look for it in Asian grocers or specialty food stores.

Tamarind puree: Made from the sour, sticky pulp of the tamarind fruit, it brings a deep, fruity acidity to the vindaloo and balances the heat and spices. Tamarind products vary in strength, so taste as you go and adjust accordingly. Look for pure tamarind puree or concentrate without added sugar at Indian and Asian grocers.

Jaggery: An unrefined Indian cane sugar with a rich, caramel-like flavour. It adds a gentle sweetness to balance the chilli and acidity. You can use brown sugar as a substitute.

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• Prep Time: 150 mins
• Cook Time: 50 mins
• Category: Chicken
• Method: Curry
• Cuisine: Southern Indian

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